2013年05月31日
Central Saint Martins' Reveal 【VOGUE UK】
MAO USAMI walked away as winner of the L'Oreal Professionel Award at Central Saint Martins' BA graduate fashion show last night - a strong and varied offering from this year's crop of students that played to pastel or neon strengths and more often than not wandered into homespun and crafty realms.
"I'm proud of them all for doing it. It requires being fearless which I wholly believe in. They're young and courageous. There was some real attitude and balls there, it felt exciting and I wish them well," prize-giver of the night and Celine creative director Phoebe Philo told us post-show. She was joined by master of ceremony Giles Deacon in her praise.
"It's incredible to get a collection together really when you're still at limited means but there was some super good creativity and something for everyone," he enthused.
Womenswear designer Usami showcased a collection that was causal to the core and riffed on American sportswear and PE kits and showed us that socks are the new shoes - the way to wear them is too long at the toe so that they attempt to trip you up as you walk (luckily no models made that mistake on the catwalk). Usami was joined by fellow students Narae Park and Giacomo Cavallari in the end-of-year celebrations, both of whom scooped second and third prize spots respectively - the former for bottle-soled slippers, bucket bags and stiff floral shapes, and the latter for glossy colour-blocked menswear accompanied by cutaway shoes to reveal jazzy-jaunty socks.
It was a night of fashion that teased the senses in every which way - from the humour of stuffed toy animal heads among Akiko Nei's collection and brick shoes from Xu Yuan Xin to the extensive and elaborate use of texture, embroidery and the touch of the human hand.
"The use of the sound in the clothes, mixed with the textures for amazing blends," noted CSM alumnus and designer Mark Fast. "I loved the easiness and the overall continuity of the show as a result."
And one of its key themes was hand-craftsmanship - ensembles that were underpinned by nostalgia, making do and mending, recycling and largely rejecting the cyber gloss and body-consciousness or techno-prints that we have so largely seen sweep across the student board in the past. Here, boys were playing at being frou-frou drag girls drenched in drama (James Buck), girls were playing at being punk rock gypsies (Matthew Bovan), and everyone was happy to make a very big statement - be it the broad shoulders of the great graffiti numbers from Beth Postle, the pretty quilted neon florals of Yoshimi Mita's serious silhouettes or the accessories to end all accessories (huge silver blocks, discs of sculptures) at Samuel Yang.
School's out for another summer - and with it a whole new set of ideas and designers to keep an eye on.
投稿者 unicon : 2013年05月31日 10:38